Cycling along Namibia’s Fish River Canyon is a silent treat. The scent of a cool morning lingers in the air while the sun slowly warms my back. As I ride along, I notice the canyon inhales sound as much its beauty draws attention. Patches of desert grass shiver from ghostly winds, the rustling gasped by the canyon. The somber colors of these sparse shrubs contrast the radiant purples, reds and blues of the canyon walls. The ride is tranquil and is the ideal time for reflection.
It was difficult to ride away from Namibia’s serenity, but entering South Africa was especially exciting as it the beginning to the end. Many were expecting a lush landscape similar to Zambia, but northern South Africa feels as though we are cycling along the contours of a crocodile’s back. The rippling and swelling hills are like scales—cracked, dry and in a predictable pattern. Recent rains have spurred the growth of desert flora and add a dark green hue to the hills.
Four days lie between us and achieving a goal we have focused on for the past four months—cycling across Africa.
Cycling along Namibia’s Fish River Canyon is a silent treat. The scent of a cool morning lingers in the air while the sun slowly warms my back. As I ride along, I notice the canyon inhales sound as much its beauty draws attention. Patches of desert grass shiver from ghostly winds, the rustling gasped by the canyon. The somber colors of these sparse shrubs contrast the radiant purples, reds and blues of the canyon walls. The ride is tranquil and is the ideal time for reflection.
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It was difficult to ride away from Namibia’s serenity, but entering South Africa was especially exciting as it the beginning to the end. Many were expecting a lush landscape similar to Zambia, but northern South Africa feels as though we are cycling along the contours of a crocodile’s back. The rippling and swelling hills are like scales—cracked, dry and in a predictable pattern. Recent rains have spurred the growth of desert flora and add a dark green hue to the hills.
Four days lie between us and achieving a goal we have focused on for the past four months—cycling across Africa.
Tired legs found rest in Windhoek, Namibia’s capital city. Since our two days there, we’ve tackled two lengthy riding days that begin the finishing stretch to Cape Town. Leaving Windhoek, a capital cuddled by mountains, the scenery seemed too perfect, as though it should reside in Disney’s Epcot Center. It is as if the city, mountains included, were picked from Germany and dropped in the middle of Namibia’s plains. The fact we are 310 kilometers out of Windhoek and haven’t seen a hill since, only gives credence to this theory.
Namibia’s plains are just as vast and featureless as in Botswana. The significant change is the roadside grass. The ear high elephant grass has been replaced by a feathery knee high grass. Strong gusts make the grass shimmer in shades of gold in much the same way a retriever’s coat shines when he twists to dry. Numbers of roadside game and wildlife are diminishing and Shop Rite and Spar, BP and Total are taking their place.
The slender road to South Africa brings us frighteningly close to speeding traffic. The hum in the distance brightens into a roar as it barrels past. We cringe and clutch handlebars, holding a straight line until taillights are safely ahead. The drivers are no less reckless than in countries past, but the unbent road and lack of policemen beckons speed from even the most conservative of drivers.
Tonight we sleep in the abandoned Gibeon train yard. Ten riding and one rest day separates us from Cape Town.
It is not often that one can assimilate to a country by merely seeing their flag; however, Botswana’s flag of light blue and black band running across the center perfectly represents our Botswanan riding experience. The black stripe being the thin ribbon of tarmac we occupy every day, and the predominance of blue represents every day’s vast sky overhead. We are more than three quarters along the bisecting black line and nearly to the final section of the tour, the Diamond Coast.
Chilly nights are reminding us we are no longer in the northern hemisphere’s spring, but experiencing the onset of fall. Another more obvious reminder is the species of animals we are encountering along the road—sable, zebra, giraffe, and elephants, of which we have seen many. Winds are shifting in our favor, easing the mental trauma of cycling consecutive centuries. Lastly, towns are becoming increasingly Western, stocking goods we’ve craved since leaving the pyramids.
With only three more bush camps and an equal number of rest days away between us and Cape Town, we are realizing this odyssey is drawing to a close. Our kilometers remain big, our accommodations improve as we progress southward, and we are beginning to think about the first thing we will do when back home.
Five minutes on a ferry and we are over the Zambezi and in Botswana—TDA 2008’s seventh country.
Botswana’s Elephant Highway Section was kicked off with a 40k time trial. Jos Kaal places first for the men with a time of 0:58.22 and Chris Willie takes second with a 1:00.06 finish. Natalia, an expedition rider turned racer, finishes first for the ladies with a time of 1:09.18 and Deb Corbeil takes second place with a 1:13.05 finish.
As each day passes, our cycling tour across Africa feels as though it is becoming a cycling safari. Just before leaving Zambia, one rider spotted a giraffe and upon cycling the few kilometers between the Botswana border and tonight’s camp, a few others watched as an ottoman sized warthog foraged along the roadside. As I type, a group of ringed mongooses are scurrying along tents, every so often pausing to poke their pointed heads above the grass. The electrified fence encircling the camp is a promising sign that even bigger animals await our discovery.
After our refreshing rest days in Livingston, we’re thrilled to be in a new country and cannot wait to spot more of Botswana’s wildlife.
Irmie Bush, 2006 TDA participant and mother of our tour doctor Luke Bush, donated 520 insecticide treated nets (ITNs) to the World Vision charity in Choma, Zambia. Three days prior, Irmie donated 1,500 INTs to the Mazibuko community who were recently affected by floods. In 2006, the Defeat-a-Mosquito campaign was set up and the Metropolitan Health Group sponsored Irmie per kilometer from Ethiopia. With the money raised in 2006, Irmie was able to purchase 800 ITNs which were distributed to the villages of Chainda and Matero in April 2007. Wishing to do more after the tour, Irmie had the idea to create a calendar with pictures collected from 2006 TDA riders and sell the calendars to raise money for the Defeat-a-Mosquito campaign. The calendars raised over 16,000USD. If you wish to donate, purchase a calendar or would like more information regarding the Defeat-a-Mosquito campaign, please visit www.africadream.co.za or email defeatamosquito@yahoo.com.
Long reeds of elephant grass shoot from the either side of the two lane highway connecting Lilongwe with Lusaka. The towering grass hangs lazily above the road, bobbing and swaying with the wind. The grass, when coupled with the many hills and blind turns makes for a thrilling ride through southern Africa’s hinterland.
Zambia’s landscape is a stark change from our previous three months of cycling. Many riders say riding across Zambia is how they pictured the entire ride across Africa. The hills, blanketed in green, are numerous and occasionally expose the odd rock formation. The tarmac is smooth and the traffic sparse. The rural populations are notably smaller, as most Zambians (40%) live in cities. In fact, one tenth of the population lives in Lusaka, where we find ourselves today.
With the improving landscape comes increasing distances. Our longest day thus far was several days ago, clocking in at 197km. From Lusaka to Victoria Falls will be our longest consecutive three-day stretch - averaging 165km per day. We are pedaling furiously, taking in the landscape and mentally preparing for our Cape Town arrival only a bit over a month away.
The Tour d’ Afrique Foundation donated fifty-seven bicycles in Lilongwe, Malawi. Bicycles were split between two non-profit organizations—CPAR (Canadian Physicians for Aid and Relief) and Coopi Maleeza. Fundraising for 41 of the bicycles came from 2008 riders: Kerri Finlayson (28 bicycles), Deborah Menzies (8 bicycles), and Maxime Allard (5 bicycles). Sixteen of the bicycles were donated through funds raised by previous TDA riders: Phil Hart (3 bicycles), Monty Orr (5 bicycles), J.J. Hilsinger (5 bicycles), and Fred Pomoli (3 bicycles).
At the donation, a CPAR representative gave a brief speech thanking the TDA for bicycles and reiterating the importance of bicycles to their mission. He explained that much of their work takes places Malawi’s rural villages and bicycles allow peer educators to visit many villages in a day. Coopi Maleeza’s representative expressed her gratitude for the bicycles and explained the bicycles' importance in preventing malaria.
The bicycles were purchased through the Africycle program (www.africycle.org), a non profit organization that collects used bicycles in Toronto and ships them to Malawi via shipping container. When they arrive in Zomba, Malawi, the Africycle shop—run by volunteers and trained locals— repairs and restores the bikes to be sold locally.
After 195km, first full cycling day in Zambia, understandably most riders awoke this morning with tired legs. There was commotion from a few locals around our school ground camp at 5:30am as they all started moving along the nearby pathway as we surfaced from our tents.
The road for the first 50km kept riders alert as they negotiated large potholes and crumbling shoulders. By lunch it was clearly another day of good cycling weather with clear skies and a fresh breeze. The pavement after lunch improved and the road started winding its way between and over increasingly hilly terrain. The surroundings also started to change from scattered trees and elephant grass to sparsely populated low lying indigenous forest.
According to Harrison Keenan, the 50km section from lunch to the refreshment stop was “how Africa should be.†At the refreshment stop, we managed to find some more than hospitable locals that dusted a shaded, open walled grass roofed hut and set out some bamboo mats for everyone to sprawl upon. It is great to be received so warmly, rest the legs and take in some of the Zambian atmosphere. Onwards to camp, after a final steep climb, we turned to a dirt track along side the Luangwa river where we are now enjoying a great view from the bar overlooking Mozambique. A great way to finish off the challenging last few days.
Upon crossing the Malawian border, the afternoon sun showers of Tanzania have changed to late evening and morning showers, making packing up in the morning a wet affair. Most agree it is better to begin drenched and dry throughout the day rather than the other way around. With the rains come cooling zephyrs. When the sun hides behind the patchy clouds, the air turns brisk and gives us respite from the muggy humidity.
Though Malawi occupies very little space on Africa’s face, we have experienced a very diverse landscape compared to other countries. For example, our past rest day found us on the sandy shores of Lake Malawi and during the last few days, we’ve spent riding atop a mountain range. We’ve seen farmers sowing rice in the lowlands and heard chainsaws growling against timber in the mountains.
Tomorrow we enter Lilongwe, capital of Malawi, and terminus of the Malawi Gin section. We bid farewell to Jurie and Herman and welcome five sectional riders. Only three more days until our next country.
